As the United States stands on the brink of a new presidential inauguration, renowned designer Miuccia Prada is reflecting on the intersection of fashion, socio-political issues, and technology. In an interview backstage during Milan men’s fashion week, Prada, 75, acknowledged the significant influence of current events, specifically Donald Trump’s rise, on her latest collection.
Prada expressed, “The world has become conservative,” and candidly admitted that her collection serves as a response to these turbulent times, embracing the notion of resistance against what she described as the “first season of artificial intelligence.” Collaborating with her co-creative director Raf Simons, the duo presented a collection that crossed conventional fashion boundaries, marked by a mixture of unexpected fabrics and styles.
This collection showcased a variety of contrasting elements, including soft leather pajamas, layered puffer jackets, and oversized hoods with eclectic prints. The deliberate juxtaposition of styles aimed to defy algorithmic fashion trends, presenting outfits that included jewelry paired with crew-neck jumpers, faux-fur tabards over office slacks, and traditional cowboy boots worn with bare chests. Such bold choices exemplified the designers’ vision of integrating modernity with primal influences.
The runway itself was reflective of this rebellion against norms; models navigated an unfinished scaffolding set to the backdrop of Rossini’s La gazza ladra. The attention to detail transformed the space, featuring a swirling blue art nouveau carpet and cinematic lighting that drew inspiration from film director David Lynch. This creative set lent an additional layer of narrative to the presentation.
Amidst a challenging market for luxury brands, Prada has remained a standout performer, being recognized as one of the industry’s hottest names. In 2022, the family-run business reported an impressive annual revenue of $4.5 billion, positioning it uniquely among brands not under conglomerate control. This independent stature has prompted speculation about potential acquisitions, including the possibility of acquiring Versace.
Despite her responsibilities as a business leader, Prada remains focused on expressing her viewpoints through fashion rather than commercial discourse. Her ability to navigate complex themes—confronting both the rise of AI and the resurgence of fascism—reflects her desire for her designs to actively engage with the societal context of their time. “Everyone wants designers to be revolutionary,” she noted, reflecting on the urgency of contemporary issues, stating, “But what is happening in the world? That is horrible.”